Apo Whang-Od, the Philippines’ oldest and most respected mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist), has become a global icon. Visiting her village of Buscalan in the mountainous Kalinga region is an incredible experience, but getting there requires planning and a bit of adventure. This guide will walk you through the steps to reach Apo Whang-Od safely and respectfully.
Planning Your Trip to Buscalan
Before you even think about packing, you need to understand that a trip to Buscalan isn’t a spontaneous weekend getaway. It requires forethought and respect for the local culture. Here’s what to consider:
- Respect the Culture: Buscalan is a traditional village. Dress modestly (cover shoulders and knees) and be mindful of local customs. Ask before taking photos of people.
- Physical Fitness: The trek to Buscalan involves some uphill walking. Assess your fitness level honestly. If you have mobility issues, this trip might not be suitable.
- Book Accommodation: Several homestays are available in Buscalan. Booking in advance, especially during peak season (weekends and holidays), is highly recommended. Your host can also arrange for a guide.
Getting to Buscalan: A Step-by-Step Guide
The journey to Buscalan involves multiple modes of transportation and takes time. Here’s a breakdown:
- Manila to Baguio:
Your journey begins in Manila. Take a bus to Baguio City. Several bus companies (Victory Liner, Genesis, JoyBus) operate regular routes. The trip typically takes 4-6 hours, depending on traffic.
- Baguio to Bontoc:
From Baguio, take another bus to Bontoc. These buses are available at the Baguio City Public Market. The journey to Bontoc is scenic but winding and takes around 5-7 hours. Be prepared for a bumpy ride!
- Bontoc to Buscalan (and Trek):
This is the final leg of your journey. In Bontoc, head to the jeepney terminal. Look for a jeepney heading to Tinglayan. Tell the driver you are going to Buscalan. The jeepney ride takes about 1.5-2 hours on a rough road. From Tinglayan, you’ll need to trek for about 30-45 minutes downhill to reach Buscalan village. It’s best to arrange for a guide in advance from your accommodation in Buscalan or in Bontoc to help you with the trek and carry your things.
What to Expect in Buscalan
Buscalan is a small, traditional village. Expect basic accommodations. Homestays typically offer simple rooms with mattresses on the floor. Electricity can be intermittent, and internet access is limited. Food is usually home-cooked and delicious, featuring local ingredients.
The main attraction, of course, is meeting Apo Whang-Od and getting a traditional tattoo. Be prepared to wait, as many people visit her daily. The price of the tattoo depends on the size and design. Other tattoo artists in the village are also available, often trained by Whang-Od herself. You can also explore the village, interact with the locals, and learn about their culture.
Safety Tips for Your Trip
Traveling to remote areas always requires extra caution. Here are some safety tips for your trip to Buscalan:
- Inform Someone: Tell a friend or family member about your travel plans and itinerary.
- Travel Insurance: Consider getting travel insurance that covers medical emergencies and evacuation.
- First-Aid Kit: Bring a small first-aid kit with essentials like bandages, antiseptic wipes, and pain relievers.
- Stay Hydrated: Drink plenty of water, especially during the trek.
- Watch Your Belongings: Be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables safe.
- Hire a Guide: A local guide can help you navigate the area and provide valuable insights into the culture.
- Respect Local Customs: Dress modestly and ask permission before taking photos of people.
Alternatives to Visiting Buscalan
If you’re unable to make the trip to Buscalan due to time constraints, physical limitations, or other reasons, consider these alternatives:
- Visit a Local Tattoo Artist: Many Filipino tattoo artists practice traditional techniques in urban areas. While it’s not the same as getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od, it’s a way to experience the art form.
- Learn About Kalinga Culture: Research Kalinga culture and traditions online or in museums.
- Support Kalinga Artisans: Purchase crafts and products made by Kalinga artisans to support their livelihood.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How much does it cost to get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?
The cost of a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od depends on the size, complexity, and location of the tattoo. Prices typically range from a few hundred to several thousand pesos. It’s best to discuss the price with the artist before getting the tattoo.
Do I need to book in advance to see Apo Whang-Od?
While you can’t book an appointment specifically with Apo Whang-Od, booking your accommodation in Buscalan in advance is highly recommended, especially during peak season. Your host can help arrange a guide and provide information about seeing Whang-Od.
What is the best time to visit Buscalan?
The best time to visit Buscalan is during the dry season (November to May) when the weather is more predictable and the trails are less muddy. Avoid visiting during major holidays as the village can get very crowded.
Is it safe to travel to Buscalan?
Buscalan is generally safe for tourists. However, it’s always important to take precautions and be aware of your surroundings. Hire a local guide, inform someone of your travel plans, and respect local customs.
What should I bring to Buscalan?
Here’s a packing list for your trip to Buscalan:
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Modest clothing (covering shoulders and knees)
- Rain gear (especially during the rainy season)
- Insect repellent
- Sunscreen
- First-aid kit
- Flashlight or headlamp
- Power bank
- Cash (there are no ATMs in Buscalan)
Can I take photos with Apo Whang-Od?
Yes, you can usually take photos with Apo Whang-Od, but it’s important to ask for permission first and offer a small donation or tip as a sign of respect.
Reaching Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan is an adventure that requires planning and respect. By following this guide and being mindful of the local culture, you can have a safe and unforgettable experience in the heart of Kalinga.
