Have you ever heard of Apo Whang-Od? She’s a legendary tattoo artist from the Philippines! People travel from all over the world to get inked by her using traditional techniques. Let’s dive into who she is, where she’s from, and what makes her so special.
Who is Apo Whang-Od?
Apo Whang-Od, also known as Maria Oggay, is a Filipina tattoo artist who lives in Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. Born on February 17, 1927, she’s considered the last mambabatok, or traditional Kalinga tattooist, of her generation. That means she’s the oldest and probably the last to practice this very specific and ancient form of tattooing.
What makes her tattooing so unique? It’s all about the method! She uses hand-tapped tattoos, relying on a hammer, a thorn from a calamansi or pomelo tree, water, and soot. The designs are deeply connected to Kalinga culture and often represent strength, beauty, and the natural world.
The History Behind the Tattoos
Back in the day, these tattoos weren’t just for decoration. They were earned! In the past, Kalinga warriors earned tattoos for acts of bravery and headhunting. Women received tattoos as a sign of beauty, status, and fertility. Each design had a specific meaning and told a story about the person wearing it.
Today, the tradition has evolved. While headhunting is no longer practiced, the tattoos still hold cultural significance. Now, anyone can receive a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od, although the meaning and purpose are more personal and symbolic.
Visiting Apo Whang-Od in Buscalan
Thinking about making the trip to Buscalan? It’s quite an adventure! The village is nestled in the mountains, and getting there requires some travel planning. You’ll typically need to take a bus from Manila to Tabuk, then a jeepney to Tinglayan, and finally hike for a few hours to reach Buscalan. It’s a journey, but many people say it’s well worth it.
Once you arrive, you’ll be welcomed into the village. It’s important to remember that Buscalan is a real community, not just a tourist destination. Be respectful of the local customs and traditions. You can find lodging in homestays within the village, which offers a chance to experience the Kalinga way of life firsthand.
Keep in mind that Apo Whang-Od is getting older. While she still tattoos, she often has her grandnieces, Elyang Wigan and Grace Palicas, assist and carry on the tradition. Getting a tattoo from any of these women is considered a special experience.
What to Expect When Getting a Tattoo
So, what’s it like getting a traditional tattoo from Apo Whang-Od or her grandnieces? First, you’ll discuss the design you want. They have a selection of traditional Kalinga designs, each with its own meaning. You can also request custom designs, but it’s important to be respectful of the cultural significance of the art.
The tattooing process itself is quite different from modern tattooing. The mambabatok taps a thorn dipped in soot ink into your skin using a hammer. It can be a little painful, but most people describe it as a bearable, rhythmic sensation. The whole process can take anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, depending on the size and complexity of the design.
After your tattoo, you’ll receive instructions on how to care for it. It’s important to keep the area clean and moisturized to prevent infection and ensure proper healing. Your tattoo will likely fade slightly over time, but it will remain a permanent reminder of your experience in Buscalan.
The Future of Batok: Preserving the Tradition
Apo Whang-Od’s legacy is incredibly important. She has dedicated her life to preserving the traditional art of Kalinga tattooing. By teaching her grandnieces, she is ensuring that this unique cultural heritage will continue for generations to come. Her work has also brought recognition to the Kalinga people and their rich culture on a global scale.
However, it’s vital to be conscious of cultural appropriation. When getting a tattoo, learn the story behind the design. Show respect for the Kalinga people, and understand that these tattoos are more than just body art; they are a connection to a rich and ancient tradition.
Is it Safe to Get a Tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?
Like any tattoo, there are some safety considerations when getting a traditional batok tattoo. While Apo Whang-Od and her successors are skilled artists, it’s essential to be aware of hygiene practices. Here are a few tips:
- Observe Cleanliness: Pay attention to the tools being used. Ideally, the thorns should be new or properly sterilized.
- Communicate Concerns: Don’t hesitate to ask about their hygiene practices or express any concerns you have.
- Aftercare is Key: Proper aftercare is crucial to prevent infection. Keep the area clean and moisturized.
- Consider Your Health: If you have any underlying health conditions or concerns about infection, consult with a doctor before getting a tattoo.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much does it cost to get a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od?
The price of a tattoo can vary depending on the size and complexity of the design. It’s best to discuss the price with Apo Whang-Od or her grandnieces directly before getting your tattoo. Prices are generally affordable, but remember to factor in travel expenses and a donation to the community.
Do I need to book in advance?
It’s not usually necessary to book an appointment in advance, but it’s a good idea to arrive early in the morning, especially during peak season. This will give you more time to discuss your design and avoid long wait times.
What if Apo Whang-Od isn’t available?
Apo Whang-Od is getting older and may not always be available to tattoo. However, her grandnieces, Elyang Wigan and Grace Palicas, are also skilled tattoo artists and are carrying on the tradition. Getting a tattoo from them is a wonderful way to support the family and the art form.
What should I bring to Buscalan?
Be sure to bring comfortable hiking shoes, as you’ll need to hike to reach the village. It’s also a good idea to bring sunscreen, insect repellent, and a hat to protect yourself from the sun. Don’t forget to bring cash, as there are no ATMs in Buscalan. Finally, bring a respectful attitude and a willingness to learn about the Kalinga culture.
Getting a tattoo from Apo Whang-Od is more than just getting inked; it’s an experience that connects you to a rich cultural heritage. By understanding the history, respecting the traditions, and being mindful of the process, you can create a lasting memory and support the preservation of this unique art form for generations to come. If you are planning a trip, remember to be a respectful traveler and appreciate the experience for what it is: a cultural exchange and a chance to witness a living tradition.
